The "In a nutshell" section in notes you see at the very end I add a sentence that says you CAN use them. I am sorry that wasn't very clear in the detailed section. It is a good idea to wire resistors between any pins carrying current and the SPI programmer to protect the programmer from potential damage. It is not needed to get a good read though.
I don't have it readily available. Can you please upload a dump of your own and I will try and modify it for you? Please upload the bin/rom file in .zip format.
I have been attempting to dump my chip's firmware so I can mod it but I have had no success. I am not using a PB I am using a BlackCat USB since I don't have a linux machine and people recommended it because of the GUI. I cannot find post or any info on where the Address range I need to read. If you could lend me a hand I would be forever in your debt.
Please use Google Search..... It makes all our lives easier.
I have no experience with the BlackCat SPI programmer, but over on HackMac.com There re people who have used it and have a tutorial on using it if I am not mistaken. Please check the site out and make a post there. I will ask around and see if I can find out if someone has one I can use. Other than that I suggest that you connect the chip just like I explain and remember three legs connect to the 3v pin on the programmer. i also suggest staging a resistor between it. Also I would like to add, if your wires are too long it causes a voltage drop. try using a multimeter to test your connection.
HELLO,
i am new to the site as a poster, but a long time reader of forums here and at other sites, i have done icloud successfully twice
, the first time on a 27 inch imac manual bruteforce. the second time a mac book pro via teensy.
i have here a 13 inch MacBookPro8,1 - A1278 - EMC 2555*
it icloud locked with a six digit pin according to my client who gave it to me as a gift( AND BECAUSE IT WAS USELESS TO HIM IN ITS CURRENT STATE)
so i started teensy and i let it run for two days, thinking 100,000 is not a bad number of combos...i can live with that...then i realized my math was very wrong and it bumped my time up to around what i guess is 206 days? roughly....ANYWAYS.
i have decided to go the SPI Reflash route....
i was going to purchase a bus pirate. but i see theres a raspberry pi route instead and id rather use that....or think i would, can anyone tell me the difference? and can a bus pirate be programmed via windows? if not i can figure it out as i do IT for a living but just curious
so the REASON im posting ill get to it now that ive been long winded enough
i need to know if there is an image for my model....if not ill continue teensy. id rather not purchase a Raspberry pi and pomona soic clip and ff wires if no need?
I do have your EFI version I think, but you need to make sure the CPU architecture is correct. The Pie is a bit faster and leaves you with a Raspberry Pie in the end to play with. The Bus pirate can be used in windows but is better on Linux in my opinion. Same with Flashrom... So I suggest going the route that has a full tutorial and loads of support.
Have you ever come across an instance where you cannot add your own account?
That is where I am at, it give me a server error and does not allow me to add my own. Do you or anyone else have any suggestions ?
Please use Google Search..... It makes all our lives easier.
Yeah it was after I flashed and removed the EFI. But I found the solution, I just skipped the first prompt and did not enter any info and let the computer start up and then go into settings and icloud and added the correct entry and it al worked fine.
Thanks.
Please use Google Search..... It makes all our lives easier.
You will have to read your chips datasheet, but usually for the 25 series chips it its OK to leave HOLD and WP unplugged. If you see inconsistent results when you do your initial 3 dumps (The backup of your original ROM just in case.) Then you may want to connect them.
The same goes for the battery, you can either disconnect it or leave it connected depending on your results. Every board and model are different. I suggest starting with it unplugged and if you get inconsistent results, it is likely do to a voltage sag meaning something on the board is drawing too much power. So then connecting the batter would be required.
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