Unable to read chip - competitor clip


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7 years 10 months ago #3489 by rav
Hey all,

The mac I'm trying to get into is a A1502 EMC2678. I've got the RebelSim clip and it seems to clip onto the port just fine.
Attached is my setup, I've gotten FlashRom installed correctly on my Rasperry Pi. I've double checked to make sure that SPI is enabled.
The error I get when I run
sudo flashrom –r ~/efi/read1.bin -V -p linux_spi:dev=/dev/spidev0.0
is "No EEPROM/flash device found"
Seems like my wires are mismatched or something. I believe that I have the right GPIO config, triple checked it.

Not sure what else I am missing.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
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7 years 10 months ago #3494 by CygnusX1

rav wrote: Hey all,

The mac I'm trying to get into is a A1502 EMC2678. I've got the RebelSim clip and it seems to clip onto the port just fine.
Attached is my setup, I've gotten FlashRom installed correctly on my Rasperry Pi. I've double checked to make sure that SPI is enabled.
The error I get when I run

sudo flashrom –r ~/efi/read1.bin -V -p linux_spi:dev=/dev/spidev0.0
is "No EEPROM/flash device found"
Seems like my wires are mismatched or something. I believe that I have the right GPIO config, triple checked it.

Not sure what else I am missing.

Any help is greatly appreciated.


Have you tried moving the switch to the other position?

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7 years 10 months ago #3495 by rav
Yeap, I've tried the switch in the other position and rebooting the Pi

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7 years 10 months ago #3501 by Bigwezel
There is probably not going enough power from the pi to the chip. Do you use original power cord to power up the raspberry?

I've had power issue's before. Sometimes there is some capacitor dropping the voltage causing not enough power going to the chip. What you can try is connecting a 85 watt charger to the board and than read out the chip. When you connect the charger without battery it powers the board on automaticcaly. Make sure you turn of the board with the charger on the board before you read the chip.

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7 years 10 months ago #3506 by thaGH05T
Yea, please test your voltage, the purpose of this clip is to not remove the logic board, and usually when we conduct a flash with it we are connecting the battery and sometimes magsafe to counteract the capacitors and/or resistors that may be causing the drop in your case. Use the maximum rated power supply recommended for your pi to help reduce loss on the Pi's end. Your wires seem to be short enough so let us know what your next tests hold.

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7 years 10 months ago #3519 by rav

Bigwezel wrote: There is probably not going enough power from the pi to the chip. Do you use original power cord to power up the raspberry?

I've had power issue's before. Sometimes there is some capacitor dropping the voltage causing not enough power going to the chip. What you can try is connecting a 85 watt charger to the board and than read out the chip. When you connect the charger without battery it powers the board on automaticcaly. Make sure you turn of the board with the charger on the board before you read the chip.


I was using a cell phone charger, but I switched to the stock CanaKit 5v @2.5a charger and still nothing. I connected the magsafe charger with the battery disconnected. Then I turned it off using the power button, connected the chip, and still no read.


thaGH05T wrote: Yea, please test your voltage, the purpose of this clip is to not remove the logic board, and usually when we conduct a flash with it we are connecting the battery and sometimes magsafe to counteract the capacitors and/or resistors that may be causing the drop in your case. Use the maximum rated power supply recommended for your pi to help reduce loss on the Pi's end. Your wires seem to be short enough so let us know what your next tests hold.


How do I test my voltage?I've tried it with the battery connected, no magsafe, then added the clip. then tried with battery and magsafe then added clip and nothing. I've attached the clip then added the magsafe and tried to read. Nothing

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7 years 10 months ago #3524 by thaGH05T
The way I do it is connect the pi to i'ts power source and connect the wires and clip to the pi. Then I probe vcc and gnd with a multimeter and see what the output is. It should be between 3.2v and 3.6v in order to successfully flash the chip using ISP. The chip itself requires a voltage of 2.8v to 3.6v to process any transaction, but you have to remember that we are going through the logic board and will experience signal loss as well as voltage drop.

We combat this by shortening the wires to the clip, using a 2amp power supply (usually), and firmly securing the clip to the logic board the entire time. You should also try (as you already are) without battery, with battery, without battery and with the magsafe, with the battery and magsafe as well. You may want to get eye level with the clip to be sure it is connected properly and securely without the pi being powered on, you can then power the pi on and try to get a read.

Some models are pretty hard to read, the most notably of them is the A1466 models, which give all of us hell at times. I should also mention that I have had better results with a fully charged Mac with the magsafe and battery connected. It may be nessesary to reboot the pi after you turn it on and get a failed read.

@cygnusX1 do you have any other suggestions for reading with the MBA Easy FLash???

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7 years 10 months ago - 7 years 10 months ago #3531 by CygnusX1
Believe it or not, try to get a reading with the system booted. I know it sound crazy but I have had success this way. Also as mentioned, be sure your wires are short enough, you have a good connection and a ample power supply. I have a 5V 2.4A power supply that I use. This is the 5V 2.4A power supply That I use.

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Last edit: 7 years 10 months ago by CygnusX1.

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7 years 10 months ago #3698 by therealjayvi
I also am having trouble with RebelSimCard's EZ Flash Clip. I looked on their website to try and see if maybe I was plugging it onto the board incorrectly, or even to try and find some info about the switch that's on the Clip, but was unable to find anything that I wasn't already aware of. There is the one thing I found that makes me wonder though... On their site they state that the Clip supports the following models: "A1369 - Mac Book Air, A1370 - Mac Book Air, A1466 - Mac Book Air, A1465 - Mac Book Air, A1425 - Mac Book Pro, A1398 - Mac Book Pro, A1502 - Mac Book Pro."

Here's the page that I found it on rebelsimcard.com/rebel-easy-mac-book-pro-air-flasher-2010-2014-model-macbook-air-efi-firmware-chip-clip-flash-or-read-bios-chips-in-circuit.html

Now, I have a 2010 MBA (A1375) that I am attempting to use the Clip on and I'm encountering the same problems. Tried the switch both directions, tried each combination of battery/charger with/without, and the setup I'm using for sure is correct because when I switch out the EZ Flash Clip for my SOIC8 Clip everything works perfectly. I've even downloaded the datasheet for the specific chip just to make sure nothing is switched around on me and for sure everything is correct. At this point I'm under the impression that it only works with the specified models, but I'd very much like to be wrong. Any thoughts from anyone?

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7 years 10 months ago - 7 years 10 months ago #3729 by reverendalc
there must be a difference in pinout on the port of the motherboard. while that page lists the device for 2010-2014, the list of supported models shows the earliest compatible hardware revision as a1369 which is a 2011 model. i would guess the following:

rebelsimcard is dumb
rebelsimcard is complacent
rebelsimcard is scamming
Last edit: 7 years 10 months ago by reverendalc.
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7 years 9 months ago #3787 by AllGoodBro
Hi. This thing is simply doesn't work. I've got a locked EFI and locked SSD on MBA Mid-2013. Also tried it on later models, same result. Not mentioning that current models have different smaller connector, which makes this device useless on them. Once I try to access Bus Pirate to read the chip type, the machine switches off and the chip appears to be unreadable. And to read it without having the machine powered on is impossible because it doesn't supply enough power to the chip. I even tried external power supply through separate breadboard. It works on some older models, but on Mid-2013 onwards it doesn't work. Had a client who bought machine on eBay and when it's arrived, it appeared to be locked. Apple wished him good luck and suggested to be more careful next time. So, he called me. I checked the connector, and being armed with my can do attitude, as an idiot assured him that this is not a problem:) And that was a major fk up from my part...
Anyway, I will be really appreciated if when there's normal 8-pin edition for sale, please let me know immediately. I think, supplying additional power through pin 7 might help. Or any other working solution. Because latest models require more power, or EFI chip desoldering. I might have to remove the chip and try to reprogram it separately. Unfortunately, this device appeared to be useless to me. This is the second 2013 model which doesn't allow to be reprogrammed with that thing:/

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7 years 9 months ago #3788 by CygnusX1
I also have the competitor clip and I have never had any issues with it. I use it along with a Raspberry Pi 3 and a 5v 2.5a power supply along with 10cm wires. It could be the clip you purchased is simply bad.

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7 years 9 months ago #3789 by AllGoodBro
Hi. Ok, It's definitely a clip problem. I've got MBA 11 Mid-2013 and had to open my own MBA 13 Mid-2013 to check this thing out. Even with external power it drains the power out of the machine. Once connected and switched on, both machines are shutting down. When I disconnect the clip, they power on back again. I've tried switching pins, provide additional power through Arduino Power supply with switcheable v3.3 and V5. Same result. It gives me a strong feeling that power escapes through somewhere when the clip is connected. I also tried Raspberry Pi 2 with the same result. In fact I prefer Bus Pirate because it was able to write chips that I was unable to write with Raspberry sometimes. But this is just a matter of preference, I think.
Maybe the circuit is shorted? The leakage is so bad that no matters if the computer is powered on, with or without battery connected or even with 45W/60W Power supply in, same result.
Any suggestions? I had like two clients already and I really would like to avoid de soldering the chip and do it old school style. Also, I think it would go better with normal 8 pin clip when there's no switchable or hardwired pins, because it gives more control.

Thanks.

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7 years 7 months ago #4592 by neighborhoodguy
The reason it doesnt work on certain models is becuase the eeprom is not getting power - thats why it sometimes you need the battery or magsafe or need it running. Also why you sometimes get a dump that starts with data and the rest is blank. Sometimes the eeprom gets power from PP3V3_SUS and sometimes its PP3V3_SUS_ROM. Helps to check the schematics.

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7 years 7 months ago #4600 by therealjayvi
@Neighborhoodguy it would seem that you know a little more than the average user! You are correct my good sir :)

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7 years 6 months ago #4635 by rav

sergioz wrote: Hi. Ok, It's definitely a clip problem. I've got MBA 11 Mid-2013 and had to open my own MBA 13 Mid-2013 to check this thing out. Even with external power it drains the power out of the machine. Once connected and switched on, both machines are shutting down. When I disconnect the clip, they power on back again. I've tried switching pins, provide additional power through Arduino Power supply with switcheable v3.3 and V5. Same result. It gives me a strong feeling that power escapes through somewhere when the clip is connected. I also tried Raspberry Pi 2 with the same result. In fact I prefer Bus Pirate because it was able to write chips that I was unable to write with Raspberry sometimes. But this is just a matter of preference, I think.
Maybe the circuit is shorted? The leakage is so bad that no matters if the computer is powered on, with or without battery connected or even with 45W/60W Power supply in, same result.
Any suggestions? I had like two clients already and I really would like to avoid de soldering the chip and do it old school style. Also, I think it would go better with normal 8 pin clip when there's no switchable or hardwired pins, because it gives more control.

Thanks.


I'm having the same problem. I turn on the mac and wait for the folder to start flashing. Once I connect the clip on the board it cuts out. Immediately the mac chime plays when I remove the clip. I am using a 5v @ 2.4a for the pi, and a 85W 20v @ 4.25a charger for the mac. I've tried it with the battery connected only, battery and magsafe, magsafe only. All the same results where the mac gets powered off with the clip on the board. I am thinking, should I get higher output power cables for the mac and pi?

neighborhoodguy wrote: The reason it doesnt work on certain models is becuase the eeprom is not getting power - thats why it sometimes you need the battery or magsafe or need it running. Also why you sometimes get a dump that starts with data and the rest is blank. Sometimes the eeprom gets power from PP3V3_SUS and sometimes its PP3V3_SUS_ROM. Helps to check the schematics.


Excuse my ignorance, how would checking the schematics help? To find either if PP3V3_sus or PP3V3_SUS_ROM need to be powered? When I have battery and magsafe in, AND turn it on, it still cuts out once I connect the clip.

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7 years 6 months ago - 7 years 6 months ago #4637 by mtronmeta
rav wrote:

I'm having the same problem. I turn on the mac and wait for the folder to start flashing. Once I connect the clip on the board it cuts out. Immediately the mac chime plays when I remove the clip. I am using a 5v @ 2.4a for the pi, and a 85W 20v @ 4.25a charger for the mac. I've tried it with the battery connected only, battery and magsafe, magsafe only. All the same results where the mac gets powered off with the clip on the board. I am thinking, should I get higher output power cables for the mac and pi?


The MacBook should not be turned on / running while the pi is connected.
Last edit: 7 years 6 months ago by mtronmeta.

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7 years 6 months ago #4641 by neighborhoodguy
When I first got a clip I couldn't get it to work half the time so I started looking at the schematics, in order to understand why it seemed so hit and miss.

For example - the vcc line of your clip doesn't go to the eeprom's vcc line

Yes - I've had the same experience - they shut off when you connect the clip - so you can't power it that way. Sometimes i run a 3.3v line off my clip to pin 8 of the eeprom. If you check pin 8 with a voltmeter you'll see it go up and down according to power states.

Is it convenient? NO.

Yesterday I did two 2010 13" airs, both emc 2392 (820-2838-a). seemed to work if i connected clip, then ac, then removed ac. I'm using a ch341 based programmer.

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7 years 6 months ago #4650 by therealjayvi
There are these little clip extensions you can buy for about ~$2 on Amazon or eBay that come in pretty handy for adding another 3v rail from an external source. Check the pic to see what I mean, there's a spot to solder a pin header or wire through. Makes it a lot easier and much safer. I got my first one when I bought a Sofi Programmer but you can buy them separately. Not sure really what they are called so you'll have to do some searching around.

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7 years 6 months ago #4658 by reverendalc
we all need to start thoroughly documenting specific models and the power states that they've been successfully flashed in.

i've personally flashed a MacBook with the machine powered on too

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