I've managed to mess up Macbook Pro by removing the SPI chip and unfortunately a few solder points came off..... does anyone know alternative points I could solder to, as I could use some kynar wire to extend the legs of the chip. The board being black, makes it hard to trace some of the points.... any help appreciated
Well the best bet is to follow your traces back enough to retrace. But if that's not possible you may be out of luck. Please take HD pictures of the board front and back so I can get a good understanding of what you have to work with. Also please provide your serial number and specs so I can get the exact model.
Hi Ghost, Thats exactly what I did..... I haven't been repairing surface mount stuff in quite some years now, and honestly, I think I applied too much heat to the board overall...
I think I've traced most points to an alternative point, except one.... but I could have that one sorted.... gonna try sometime this week as Ive got a hectic schedule. There is not much support for this kind of stuff around the Ireland area, and I came across your site by accident.
I'll post the board and get your thoughts on things, if your happy enough with that! Maybe just to corroborate my thinking.
Hi Ghost, Thats exactly what I did..... I haven't been repairing surface mount stuff in quite some years now, and honestly, I think I applied too much heat to the board overall...
I think I've traced most points to an alternative point, except one.... but I could have that one sorted.... gonna try sometime this week as Ive got a hectic schedule. There is not much support for this kind of stuff around the Ireland area, and I came across your site by accident.
I'll post the board and get your thoughts on things, if your happy enough with that! Maybe just to corroborate my thinking.
BTW, I took pic through 10x lighted magnification glass
All but 1 looks like you could fill in with solder and it would work. I see a couple traces leading to vias but on multi layer boards its hard to tell where they go next. Your best bet is to gently start removing solder mask.
i had a similar problem with an ipod 3rd gen, what you can do is, trace the connection on the board to the other end, gently scrape off the solder mask and solder a piece of copper wire to it, and then continue to join the other point where you are soldering, also if the connection is close enough just scrape off the solder mask protecting the copper then apply some Electrically Conductive Epoxy and solder to that.
Many thanks all for your help.... I think I may have it sorted (fingers crossed)
Ive managed to download the relevant firmware file for my model..... one quick question. I'm using a cheapie SkyPro SPI programmer which is compatible with this chip.
When I write the fresh firmware (with serial number entered in relevant spot) do I just dump it back to ROM as it is, or does it need converting to some kind of format?
Sorry in advance, if these questions seem lame, but I'm outta touch for ages with this, and relatively new with MAC's
omg sorry dude but dam you fucked up that board
clean up as much as possible to see if i can see the traces it will take alot of work but im sure it can be done
next time use kingbo flux great for reflowing and removing smd ic's
...........ouch
After malting off small parts at reflow point, I have learned Kapton tape decreases the temp by 5-6 degrees which is enough to not reflow the stuff you don't intend to. My two cents anyways.
i have been doing reflowing among other things for many years i can solder like no ones business even drunk ha
hell even better use kingbo flux and some stuff called chip quik stays molten long enough to hit all legs of the ic allowing you to remove it if you only have a solder iron
i have a rework station so not really needed but that stuff does it job and does it well
my chat was offline sent you a message gh0st
Fucked up is an understatement...... one thing I does got.... it's determination..... It'll prolly take me a few weeks, but I think I'll get there in the end.... with a lot less hair.....
update: I am getting the IC programming ok now..... so it's good to go in.....
As long as the colored lines correspond to the actual traces you should be good. The unknown pad may lead to a different layer so if possible try testing continuity to different points on the board.
Aparentemente no fue demasiado calor. sino lo contrario. Muy poco calor. Antes de probar esos contactos basado en las lineas, deberias de medir continuidad, con tester entre los puntos y estañar de nuevo o usar un cable muy fino de cobre de 0.10 mm para hacer un puente entre contactos.
This website uses cookies to manage authentication, navigation, and other functions. By using our website, you agree that we can place these types of cookies on your device.
You have declined cookies. This decision can be reversed.
You have allowed cookies to be placed on your computer. This decision can be reversed.
This website uses cookies to manage authentication, navigation, and other functions. By using our website, you agree that we can place these types of cookies on your device.
