Early 2011 MbPro EMC 2419 bad (no error) read bin


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8 years 3 months ago #2124 by thaGH05T
Looking forward to hearing about your resolution.

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8 years 3 months ago - 8 years 3 months ago #2138 by baileyw813
I grabbed the same manufacturer power supply and my PI gets 3.297v at the 3.3v pin. However I still get less than 3.2v (~3.07-3.12v) at the chip... I am assuming the voltage drop has to be completely due to the length of my jumpers now. I began shortening all of them and then the PI had a boot problem and it seems I will need to reinstall the OS as well as the flashrom (second time this PI has corrupted my SD card/OS/Boot.)
I gave up on this machine last night and I had a donor board (I also repair boards on the component level) with the same EMC/processor. I just removed the chip and placed the donor and all is well. I do have a couple other bare boards that are EFI password locked that I am still going to attempt to reprogram/flash.

**Made in PRC** assuming that is Peoples Republic of China... so I guess I "lucked" out on the PI system lol. Oh well. not sure if I can write the seller back and request a UK built model?
Last edit: 8 years 3 months ago by baileyw813. Reason: board info

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8 years 3 months ago #2141 by thaGH05T
One of the most important things is to get proper voltage to the chip pins. This can be a bit of a challenge in some environments. The biggest thing for you is you actually have a read it is just bad. You need to adhere strictly to the requirements for reading and writing that can be found in your chips datasheet. Don't give up. because this is really a simple task that can be done in a matter of minutes when you get the initial shock of it out of the way.
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8 years 3 months ago #2146 by baileyw813
I've returned the PRC model and ordered the UK version. Hopefully that along with the new 10cm jumpers I'll be in business. I'll update once I receive all my new goodies. Thanks again for all your help!!

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8 years 3 months ago #2148 by DeboTech
I had a situation like this as well. What I did and I'm not sure it's the best solution. But I turned the computer on. I allowed it to run through the writing stage. All went well with the process. I know if anything is touched wrong there could be a shortage.

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8 years 3 months ago #2157 by thaGH05T

DeboTech wrote: I had a situation like this as well. What I did and I'm not sure it's the best solution. But I turned the computer on. I allowed it to run through the writing stage. All went well with the process. I know if anything is touched wrong there could be a shortage.


Just to add to this a bit, the reason this worked in your case was because the Mac needed power to something. What i mean is, the voltage was being drained from the pi somehow and the chip during read likey was failing or succeeding with a corrupt file. Supplying voltage to the board during the flashrom operation can remedy the situation.

Just for any of you reading this post, I do not think it wise to actually have the Mac powered on during the read/write process. And I think it is best to have pullup resistors on the 3.3v wires to be safe. The A1466 models are especially a pain in the rear when it comes to this process. Case in point; I have an A1466 that I fixed for a guy and he loaned it to me to help develop the MBA Easy FLash clips. I have not been able to reach this guy ever since HackMack.org went offline. So the battery finally drained on it as it was sitting in the corner. I grabbed it one day to test a batch of clips and couldn't get a good read to save my life! I threw it back in the corner as I was able to get the clips working on another Mac. I still haven't heard from the guy, so I decided to buy a SSD for it and use it. I am not going into detail of the nightmare I have had with this thing since, but I have a charger for it now and let it charge over night. After running into issues with installing OS X to the damned thing, I finally decided to try and pull the firmware and write another version back to it. I thought I was in for a ride, but I hooked it up to my pi and it read first try.

That long story just to tell you I had issues reading/writing one after letting the battery drain and when the battery was charged all my issues went away. Every mac is different so I think its best to start with no power and no charger connected to the logic board just to see if will read/write successfully, and then work your way up the latter by adding battery and then eventually the magsafe.

The whole point of this little sermon is to get through to you all that voltage stability while reeding any EEPROM is extremely important! Without having a steady and correctly applied voltage it will not work.
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8 years 3 months ago #2181 by baileyw813
Just received shorter (10cm) jumpers, actual PI power supply (5V 2A) and UK version PI. Hopefully will get a chance this evening to start reading EFI.

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8 years 3 months ago #2185 by CygnusX1
Keep us posted!

If I helped you buy me a latte!

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8 years 3 months ago - 8 years 3 months ago #2187 by .::iRizwan::.
The method i use to program in circuit is as follows.

1. Remove the logic board from the body if possible. (to avoid short circuit etc..)
2. Attach the Charger (without battery if possible "some macs must need battery to be powered on") and power on the mac, wait atleast a minute (write protection to be disabled)
3. Now shut down the mac but let the charger attached.(Surely Powered)
4. then attach the soic clip or solder wires like i do and try to read write the chip.
5. You will be amazed. ;)

I will be very happy if this helped someone else too.


if i helped you Buy me a Coffee
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Last edit: 8 years 3 months ago by .::iRizwan::..

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8 years 3 months ago #2193 by baileyw813
There has to be easier (more real estate) test points/alternative spots on the board to solder to, other than directly on the chip itself. I'm going to check my schematic and boardview for A1466 when I get off work to verify.

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8 years 3 months ago - 8 years 3 months ago #2203 by baileyw813
This is what I had in mind. There are plenty of test points around the chip which would allow for an easier solder job. This isn't your exact board, but it is the 2014 A1466 820-3437-B. As long as you keep in mind the edge of the board, as well as the noted PIN 1, you'll be golden :)
All the red lines from the U6100 (bios/EFI) chip are going to a spot on the board which has the same signal/continuity. So, soldering to that other point, is EXACTLY like soldering to the point on the chip the red line is leading to.

Last edit: 8 years 3 months ago by baileyw813.
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8 years 3 months ago #2204 by CygnusX1

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8 years 3 months ago - 8 years 3 months ago #2205 by baileyw813
I could make more of these upon request. They seem to be the most useful for boards like the Airs, as it is difficult to access the contacts on the chip.

IMO it would be wise to keep from soldering near any components if you are not experienced with soldering on these expensive boards (would help from avoiding ripping traces/legs off of the board.) So this could even help on machines like the 2011 MB Pro when you don't have a quality POMONA 5250 clip for the MX chips (instead of soldering right to the chip.)
Last edit: 8 years 3 months ago by baileyw813.

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8 years 3 months ago - 8 years 3 months ago #2206 by baileyw813
@theGHO5T

not sure if this will help at all, but...

At first glance, this is what I have with the 2015 MacBook Air A1466 chip to header...

u6100

pin1 SPI_MLBROM_CS_L ---> PIN5
pin2 SPI_MLB_IO1_MISO --->PIN6
pin3 SPI_MLB_IO2_WP_L --->PIN8
pin4 GND --->GND (or PIN1, 13, 14, 15 or 16)

pin5 SPI_MLB_IO0_MOSI ---> PIN4
pin6 SPI_MLB_CLK---> TO PIN3
pin7 SPI_MLB_IO3_HOLD_L---> PIN10
pin8 PP3V3_SUS --> 3.3V


HEADER

PIN1 GND

PIN3 SPI_ALT_CLK
PIN4 SPI_ALT_IO0_MOSI
PIN5 SPI_ALT_CS_L
PIN6 SPI_ALT_IO1_MISO
PIN7 SPIROM_USE_MLB
PIN8 SPI_ALT_IO2_WP_L
PIN10 SPI_ALT_IO3_HOLD_L

PIN13 GND
PIN14 GND
PIN15 GND
PIN16 GND


Last edit: 8 years 3 months ago by baileyw813.
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8 years 3 months ago #2227 by thaGH05T
Brother, that is exactly what we need! Where did you get a 2015 schematic?? Would you be interested in taking on the task of getting as many pinouts as possible? We will need these for my future clip rev 4.

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8 years 3 months ago #2228 by thaGH05T
If so, we should start a thread or even a database with this type of information. PM me about this if you are interested in contributing please.

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8 years 3 months ago #2229 by thaGH05T

baileyw813 wrote: This is what I had in mind. There are plenty of test points around the chip which would allow for an easier solder job. This isn't your exact board, but it is the 2014 A1466 820-3437-B. As long as you keep in mind the edge of the board, as well as the noted PIN 1, you'll be golden :)
All the red lines from the U6100 (bios/EFI) chip are going to a spot on the board which has the same signal/continuity. So, soldering to that other point, is EXACTLY like soldering to the point on the chip the red line is leading to.

This is extremely difficult for even myself to do at times. I have ruined a board soldering to the test point which was not fun. This is why I decided to manufacture a clip to interface with the board instead. I swear I will have a new project page up soon with the info on how to pre-order.

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8 years 3 months ago #2383 by baileyw813
still no dice. haven't been able to get a good read from any chip off any laptop/mac mini board. I'm starting to think it's the clip. have a legit clip, but still having issues, even with just a chip in the clip (not attached to a motherboard)

so very frustrating.

Side note, I am working on the mapping of all the boards I have access to (physically and through bv and schematics)

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8 years 2 months ago - 8 years 2 months ago #2414 by baileyw813
Just an update...

I wound up removing the efi chip from this computer and soldered one that I had on a VERY dead matching board with no efi/icloud and it works great.

However, it was still driving me crazy why I haven't been able to get a good read/just recently not even being able to detect chips.
I set it all up like I had before, however, this time I was able to find my old breadboard and hooked up PIN 17 (3.3V) to the breadboard and then pin 3,7,8 to the breadboard. I was having issues (still) with even detecting the chips on certain boards, BUT, the EFI chip (MX25L6408E) that was on the MB Pro that I could never get to read correctly, actually read just fine off of the logic board. I removed another chip (also the MX25L6408E) from another dead board and it wont read at all (not detected), so it could be a defective chip.

I've made some progress, at least I am able to detect the chips, but I am still getting bad reads or not detecting the chips at all.
I have a 2012 Mac Mini which it detects as the 25Q... chip without any "-c" operators, but it still gives me the bad read like I was having before.

This leads me to believe I may have a faulty SOIC8 clip (although it always reads that original chip now just fine, which I find to be VERY odd!!) I am going to order a new one, I wish I knew if Frys Electronics had these in stock, as I'd buy one from them a lot quicker...

Any way. sorry for the book. I will update more later. I just hate when someone doesn't keep in touch with issues/solutions in the end...
Last edit: 8 years 2 months ago by baileyw813. Reason: chip->clip

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8 years 2 months ago #2415 by baileyw813
oh real quick...

Yes... the shorter 10cm wires seemed to fix my voltage drop/loss issue. I am getting always between 3.29 and 3.3v and the clip/chip/board now.

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